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TROUBLESHOOTING

1) "I've tapped the freeze out plug, but instead of rotating in the bore it seems to be going deeper into the head.  What else can I try to get the freeze out plug removed?

Answer: Using a drill and a 3/16" drill bit, drill a hole in the CENTER of the freeze out plug.  Do not use heavy pressure when drilling, let the drill bit do the work. A vacuum can be used to capture the shavings as you are drilling.  Once the hole is made, get a coarse grade bolt with an agressive thread, such as a 1/4 lag bolt (Home Depot). Thread the lag bolt into the center of the freeze plug just enough to grip it good.  Use a block of wood, or similar item on the cylinder head to protect the surface.  Using the claw end of a hammer, an angled crow bar, or even an angled pry bar, pry up under the head of the lag bolt, using the block of wood as a leverage point.  The freeze plug will be pulled out of the head.

2) "What is the proper depth for the stainless fitting in the coolant jacket?"

Answer: The stainless fitting is installed properly when the upper base of the fitting is 1/8"(.125) or closer to the cylinder head surface. See photo below.  Note: The fitting may fully seat prior to becoming flush with the cylinder head surface. This is acceptable.

3) I've heard that purging the air out of the cooling systems on the 4.6 DOHC engines can be difficult.  How can I make sure that I don't have an air pocket trapped in my system when I refill it?

Answer: Our cooling mod makes purging the air out of the system much easier than on a stock application, since the head cooling mod acts as an air bleed during the re-fill procedure.  Even Flow Cooling has installed and assisted in numerous cooling system modifications which include the draining and re-filling of the cooling system on these vehicles.  The MOST BENEFICIAL piece of advice we can give is to fill the cooling system with the vehicle on an incline(front of car higher than rear).  This assists the air purging by putting the radiator/overflow tank at a higher level than the rest of the system and air will always tend to work its way toward the highest point in the system. The following represents the EXACT procedure we have used on all cooling system re-fills with outstanding sucess: a)  Remove burp plug from the coolant crossover tube. b)  The cap should be off of the coolant overflow bottle. c)  Plug the 1/2" hose barb at the Even Flow cooling "T" that was installed in the upper radiator hose. d)  Face the 1/2" heater hose from the Even Flow kit straight up towards the hood. This is where all the system air will escape initially. e)  Fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant THROUGH THE BURP PLUG at the crossover tube.  Fill the system until you can see the level IN THE OVERFLOW TANK come up to just below the "add coolant" level."  Replace the cap on the overflow tank. f) Continue to fill at the burp plug until some standing coolant can be seen at the bottom of the crossover tube. g)  Remove the plug at the 1/2" hose barb of the cooling "T" and plug the 1/2" heater hose into the 1/2" barb fitting at the Even Flow Cooling "T".  Tighten connection clamp. h)Replace bulp plug, start engine and check for leaks.  Heater should be on full hot and fan on high. Vary RPM range from idle to 2500 RPM.  Watch coolant gauge and heater operation during warm-up.  If gauge is erratic or heat quickly changes from hot to cold, shut engine down, allow to cool, check for proper level in the coolant overflow and at the burp plug.  Add coolant as necessary.  i) Once vehicle has reached operating temperture and cooling fan has cycled, test drive.  After test drive, park vehicle and allow engine to cool.  Re-check coolant level at overflow tank and adjust as necessary.  Re-fill complete.